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Wolfgang Kulow

© via: Wolfgang Kulow

Die Extremsportler Wolfgang Kulow und Jörn Theissig wollen den Baikalsee zu Fuß von Süden nach Norden überqueren. Mit ihrem Lauf erfüllen sie sich einen Lebenstraum und möchten in Ko-Operation mit Viva con Aqua Menschen an die Trinkwasserproblematik erinnern und zu Spenden für ein Projekt in Nepal überzeugen. (Hier geht es zum Spendenformular: Betterplace.org/fundraising-baikalsee.")

Wolfgang hat bereits Erfahrung mit Expeditionen auf dem Baikalsee. In seinem letzten Beitrag berichtete er von der unglaublichen Schönheit der Natur, die allerdings untrennbar mit brutalen Gefahren verbunden ist.

Kein falscher Handgriff und Nerven bewahren
Eines Nachts weckte mich ein unglaublicher Sturm. Es war 4 Uhr morgens und ich war mitten auf dem See. Mein Zelt fing langsam an, sich zu lösen, und das trotz Eisschrauben. Es wurde also grenzwertig und ich war im Zelt nicht mehr sicher. Ich überlegte, was ich tun konnte. Entweder konnte ich warten, ob mir alles um die Ohren fliegt, oder ich konnte aktiv werden. Ich bin niemand, der Dinge dem Zufall überlässt. Ich begann dann, im Zelt alles zu verstauen.

Vom Fahrrad habe ich immer ein Tau bis ins Bett, das ist meine Not-Leine. Damit habe ich alles gesichert. Ich hatte meine Stirnlampe auf. Das war die einzige Lichtquelle. Ich wusste, ich durfte nicht den geringsten Fehler machen. Ein falscher Griff genügt und es fliegt ein Handschuh weg oder die Isomatte oder der Schlafsack. Bei diesem Sturm sind die Sachen ganz schnell bis zum Horizont weggeflogen. Dann wäre ich erledigt gewesen.

Ich musste mir also genau überlegen, was ich mache. Ich musste energisch und entschlossen vorgehen. Sobald du etwas nur halb-entschlossen machst, passieren Fehler oder du sicherst nicht genug. Du musst wirklich professionell vorgehen. Das erforderte hundertprozentige Konzentration und Aufmerksamkeit.

Ich packte alles zusammen und baute mein Zelt Schritt für Schritt ab, befestigte die Eisschrauben und die komplette Ausrüstung am Fahrrad. Zum Schluss schmiss ich mich dann oben auf mein Zelt drauf. Um Viertel nach vier saß ich dann neben meinem Fahrrad im Eissturm und mir ging es sau-gut, wirklich super. Mir war nichts weggeflogen, ich fror nicht. Ich hatte dicke Handschuhe an, einen Daunenjacke, meine Mount Everest Schneesturm-Brille auf und dicke Stiefel an den Füßen. Und ich hatte die Nerven behalten.

Ich musste abwarten, bis es hell wurde. Das würde erst gegen 7, Viertel nach 7 sein. Erst dann konnte ich mich wieder nach einer Bergkette umschauen und mich orientieren. Im Dunkeln weiterzulaufen, war zu riskant. Es gibt teilweise große Eisbrüche und andere lebensgefährliche Hindernisse. Die sind im Schneesturm nachts nicht zu erkennen, da hast du keine Chance. Und mit dem Kompass Kurs in Richtung Land zu nehmen, war auch keine Option. Ich wusste, dass sich aufgrund der Manganfelder in der Gegend mit dem Kompass auch schon viele verirrt hatten. Ich konnte also nur die Nerven behalten und schauen, dass ich am nächsten Tag wieder auf Sicht etwas vorankam. So nachts mitten auf dem See, das war schon ein Abenteuer!

Planänderung
Als ich dann nach sechs Tagen an der Nordspitze der Baikalsee-Insel Olchon ankam, lagen dort endlose Packeisfelder. Messerscharfe Eisscherben ragten überall heraus. Ich wusste schnell, das schaffe ich nicht. Da war ich echt verzweifelt. Aber ich musste eine Entscheidung treffen. Mein Visum wäre abgelaufen, wenn ich an meinem Ziel in Sewerobaikalsk angekommen wäre. Vielleicht hätte ich das Ganze auch nicht überlebt. Es machte keinen Sinn weiterzugehen. Aber ich gab nicht auf und setzte mir stattdessen ein neues Ziel: Ich beschloss, nach Süden runterzugehen. Ich fuhr also wieder zurück, an Listwjanka vorbei, nach Kultuk, dem südwestlichsten Punkt des Sees. So fuhr ich insgesamt 755 km. Meine Gesamtstrecke war also am Ende länger, als wäre ich nach Norden weitergefahren. Insofern war es keine direkte Niederlage. Allerdings musste ich das Ganze wieder zurückstiefeln. Das war natürlich nicht so motivierend. Ich musste mich wieder neu überwinden, doch dann motivierte es mich, den südlichsten Punkt des Baikalsees kennenzulernen.

Zwei Jahre später startete ich mit dem Extrem-Athleten Stefan Schlett einen zweiten Versuch. Wir fuhren mit der Eisenbahn in den Norden nach Serewobaikalsk. Von da sind wir mit den Rädern los, aber wir wussten, dass der südliche Baikalsee durch den milden Winter noch nicht ganz zugefroren war. Wir hatten die Hoffnung, dass der See zugefroren sein würde, nachdem wir die ersten 14 Tage unterwegs waren. Das hat sich leider nicht bewahrheitet: zwischen Olchon und Listwjanka waren große offene Stellen im See. So etwas kommt nur etwa alle 80 Jahre einmal vor, wir hatten also richtig Pech.

Ausblick aufs nächste Baikal-Abenteuer
Ich freue mich nun schon riesig auf unsere Tour im Februar. Alles ist gebucht, der Winter spielt mit und ich bin optimistisch. Das wird superschön und gleichzeitig brutal. 700 km sind kein Pappenstiel und wir werden die ganze Zeit draußen leben. Aber die Begeisterung, über das Eis zu gleiten und zu wandern, die ist größer als alles Leiden.

Wenn ich mit Jörn da bin, wünsche ich mir, dass wir dann gegen Abend in Ufernähe bleiben. Wir wollen nicht an Land, aber vielleicht 500 m oder 1 km vom Ufer entfernt unser Zelt aufschlagen. Es wird wieder spannend, wirklich wie Himmel und Hölle. Wir müssen natürlich schauen, dass unser Körper und die Energie mitspielen. Auch die Schuhe ohne Blasen, die Muskel und Gelenke – alles muss bei der Kälte halten. Wir haben schon vieles getestet, aber man weiß es nie. Der Körper reagiert immer wieder anders, der hat manchmal sein Eigenleben.

Wir werden euch regelmäßig über unser Abenteuer auf dem Laufenden halten. Und wir freuen uns über eure Unterstützung für unsere Expedition und unser Spendenprojekt (Betterplace.org/fundraising-baikalsee.")

Euer Wolfgang






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